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ferry stories

not that i wish to come over all cycling plus on you, but every now and again, the odd travel story tears you away from titanium sprockets and the like. islay and jura are not always the easiest of places to get to by bicycle, not because of transportational difficulties across the wet bit, but mostly because the approach roads from glasgow are, in summertime, some of the busiest around. the fact that they twist and turn the closer you get to the coast, means that motorists end up seriously frustrated because they can't pass, and either sit on your tail and fume, or do something stupid and pass where one ought not to pass.

the principal alternative used to be travelling by ferry from ardrossan to brodick on arran, cycling across the top of arran to lochranza, and taking the little ferry from there to claonaig then across the kintyre peninsula to kennacraig and the islay ferry. however, over the past couple of years, there has been an even more enterprising solution that involves a rather faster piece of water borne machinery, arriving at craighouse on jura. warren sanders and esther tacke, both previous visitors to islay decided this was a route that just had to be experienced. and now you can too.

With time on your hands after a ride, you sit in front of the TV with a mug of tea, wearing as much compression kit as you have the energy to pull on. If The Dave Harmon show isn't on, then you may find yourself in amongst the dinosaur and shark channels and Nick Crane hosted somethings that can fill gaps in your pub quiz education. I know that Nick now tries to come across as a benevolent Oxbridge Don but he was, and perhaps still is, a great cyclist who first taught us the concept of cutting our toothbrushes in half to save weight; and yes that umbrella has seen time on the hill as Nick's only accommodation; trust me he is hard as nails. It's on these channels that Nick will point out how the sea connects the west of Scotland and indeed Ireland.

I know you may think this a reference tof the spread of Christianity and rather unseaworthy craft, but last year this was made outstandingly clear following a tour on my bike in the area. A check of the next month's itemised mobile bill for that tour showed calls apparently made from Ireland: short straight line distances indeed.

This would be a good time to open an OS map and check all the ferry routes allowing the linking together of even short bike rides. My personal best is five ferries with only 65 miles of cycling. But a note of caution: picture me here tapping the side of my nose in the way that David Duffield would, because the map does not show all the ferry routes, and it's of one such hidden gem that this tale is concerned.

The standard way to the Isle of Jura is by CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Islay, then a short hop across to Feolin. But last year I discovered by chance, when riding up a dead-end road looking for somewhere to camp near Lochgilphead, that there is the fast ferry way. The photo on the website is of a small(ish) rubber boat (they're called RIBs; Rigid Inflatable Boat) stating quite clearly that both foot passengers and bikes can be transported. Not convinced, I emailed them twice to make totally sure and even checked again when I made my reservation; yes they did take bikes.

There was a circle to be closed.

When you make your booking for Branson's spaceship in a few years time you won't be surprised to see, in the terms and conditions, about it being inadvisable to make a booking if you have a history of back problems. The G-forces you see (and there will almost certainly be a torturously incomprehensible paragraph or two about their policy on the carriage of bicycles). The Tayvallich fast ferry you may be more surprised to learn, also has such a note of concern about back problems. It's the first ferry i've been on in which a four point harness is standard on all seats. And yes they did take bikes.

The plan was simple. Start at Tayvallich with this fast ferry to Jura, cycling its one and only road (stunning, and as ever on these occasions, verging on epic), then turn back for the ferry to Islay. Right there you have done almost 40 miles. Of course you could have turned left and straight to the Islay ferry at a cost of only eight miles, but you would miss so much. The ferry from Jura to Islay is fairly regular, so no need to fret about timetables. You and can just stand, watch and wait as it copes with the speedy tidal flow between the islands. It's only a short distance but would be a challenging and perhaps suicidal swim at times. It's not unnatural for the ferryman to assume that you are using the return part of a round trip ticket, so in such confusion you have already sort of made money. The only hard bit now is the 14% gradient out of Port Askaig.

This is the where we sort out the truly hard men. It should be possible in theory, working the timetables to your advantage, to ride across Islay to Port Ellen (21 miles) and close that loop in a day. You may be the first ever to do this providing major bragging rights; It is there for the taking.

We, however, had the comfort of a night's stay with one half of the Wiggle brothers and so took two days. Much talk that night was about bikes and the merit of lightweight touring equipment, accompanied by a 30 year old malt. It was agreed that front panniers only is the way to go. We are big fans of Nick Sanders who rode around the world in 80 days. He went with a race bike and front bags only. We concur (he must have been so upset when they changed the round the world rules).

Carving this into a two day trip meant we could join up with the VC d'Ardbeg peloton from Debbie's of a Sunday morning. Accompanying 'The Mighty Dave T' is akin to riding alongside Yorkshire cricket legend Geoff Boycott, assuming he'd had a dramatic change of sporting codes. "No lass you don't have to point out them holes; I know 'em all". It seems I had spent unnecessary time teaching my wife peloton etiquette for the day.

Weather and the stress made the distance to the ferry seem longer, so the pace was high; too high perhaps, as we arrived 60 minutes early for the boat, sweating enough to require a change of baselayers. The ferry to the mainland takes over two hours, providing your main chance to refuel, rest and seize up. If you ever take the ferry from Bute to the mainland at the end of the five ferry loop, you may find yourself sitting in Lycra amongst drunken hen-party girls, but the Islay ferry on a Sunday afternoon is a more sober and relaxing setting. jura fast ferry

In front of you as you roll off the boat is the longest and hardest section of the loop, hugging the coast before turning left to Kilberry. Make sure there's food in your rear pockets, as Port Ban caravan park is the only re-fueling point, not counting the Michelin star restaurant in the village of Kilberry. We didn't.

This section provides fantastic views over the route you've just cycled but there are some fearsome hills populating the 51 mile section back to Tayvallich. Riding part of the Crinan Canal can be used for those sturdy of wheel as part of the route and is to be recommended.

Total bike mileage can be as little as 80 or as much as 140 if you want to play around, ad-libbing as you go. There is fine accommodation in Tayvalich with which to start and end your odyssey, and a stay in, or near Port Charlotte making a two day trip, seems also a sensible idea.

The Jura Fast Ferry is operated by Nicol MacKinnon's Islay Sea Safari on behalf of Isle of Jura Development Trust. It operates a weekend service from 27th May to 26th September, 2011. (Friday to Monday only) between Tayvallich on the Scottish mainland, and the village of Craighouse on Jura's east coast. Journey time is approximately one hour, at a cost of £20.00 per person each way. Bicycles are carried free, though there is obviously a maximum number that can be carried on the boat. In other words, arrive early.

Full details on the ferry can be had from jura fast ferry. Information about Jura on jura development trust

An alternative tour can is possible on Wednesdays only. Leave Jura in morning and catch CalMac to Colonsay from Port Askaig, Islay. Tour Colonsay and on to Oban.

originally posted thursday 13 may 2010

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